Rhode Island - A WorldWeb.com Travel Guide Review

	Newport, Rhode Island

HISTORY

Modern life in the smallest state in America grew out of the Providence Plantations, the first settlement of European decent established in 1636 in what is now the capital city of Providence. It was in that year that clergyman Roger Williams left the Massachusetts Bay Colony to worship freely according to his own beliefs. Williams arrived with a number of worshippers, including Anne and William Hutchinson and William Coddington, who would found Portsmouth two years later in pursuit of their own religious freedom.

The 17th century was a time of great development for Rhode Island, with particular regard for religious independence. So much so that the state earned the unofficial nickname of "Rogues Island" with the other New England colonies. The state developed a reputation for such independence, and several sects began moving in. Quakers, Jews, French Huguenots (Calvinists), and Baptists all relocated during the 1600s. In fact, America's first Baptist church was formed in Providence, and dates back to 1639.

That year saw William Coddington travel to Aquidneck Island to establish yet another new settlement, which he named Newport.

Freedom of worship brought peace to the religious life of the new settlers, but inevitable clashes between those of European ancestry and those of Native American decent became commonplace by the end of the century. The European desire to use the land exclusively, and the deaths of the leaders of both sides of the conflict increased hostilities. Abuse followed abuse, resulting in the colonial war known as King Philip’s War, considered one of the greatest tragedies to occur on American soil. Thousands of lives were lost, one in ten soldiers on either side died in battle, and the property damage was overwhelming. To add insult to injury, the end of the war brought with it an end to the political sovereignty of Native people in the area.

During the relative peace of the early 1700s, the settlements of Providence and Newport were among the busiest trade ports on the continent. By the middle of the 18th century the South County plantations were the most successful producers, focusing mainly on agriculture and dairy products, though livestock (sheep, in particular) was not uncommon.

The post war peace of the new colonies was short lived, as the absolute lack of representation for the new colonies in Parliament led to dissension between rulers and subjects. In addition, new laws and taxes were imposed by the Crown in an attempt to recover the high cost of King Philip's War. At this time New England residents still considered themselves subjects of the Crown, but acted separately, governing themselves by votes of majority under the supervision of England's appointed officials. Grateful as the colonists were for the support and defence against the Native People, they did not welcome England's new taxes on every day items such as sugar, tea and newspapers.

During the turbulent years of the Revolutionary War that followed, the settlers of the Plantation State fought on the front lines. As the first colony in the new world to declare independence from Great Britain (in May of 1776), it is somewhat surprising that only one major battle was fought on New England soil. The battle against the British left its mark in 1778 during the Battle of Rhode Island. For the entire month of August, the Colonial Army attacked the Crown forces stationed in Newport, on Aquidneck Island across Narragansett Bay. As the war raged on, American forces were driven north toward Turkey Hill and Providence, but their greater numbers ultimately led to their victory. During the war the state produced many wartime heros, including George Washington's second-in-command, General Nathanel Greene.

It was not long after the end of that war (in 1785) that "Little Rhody" gained statehood. May 29, 1790 saw Rhode Island become the 13th state. Having developed strong commercial ties with the Atlantic settlements, the newest member of the U.S.A. set its sights on trade with other British colonies from Portugal and Africa to South America and the West Indies. The most lucrative business also became the most controversial. Rhode Island merchants were more active in the slave trade than any other colony, even though many African Americans fought along side the colonists in the war for independence.

It is ironic, then, that Rhode Island played such a pivotal role in the anti-slave movement. The emancipation movement in Rhode Island began when Moses Brown became a Quaker and freed his slaves. He went on to lead the masses to enact anti-slave legislation, an extension of the Negro Emancipation Act of 1784. The subsequent trial and acquittal of John Bower on charges of slave trading led New Englanders to believe the legislation wouldn't have much effect, especially against the wealthy. In an attempt to secure their freedom, many African Americans enlisted in the "Black Regiment of Rhode Island", the first black army unit in history. The unit was never paid for their efforts, and continued racial tension through the 18th and 19th centuries led to civil unrest in the peaceful ocean state. Fortunately, not all settlers supported the slave traders. During the height of the Underground Railroad, many families seeking freedom found their way to Rhode Island, and would take shelter in secret in Bethel African Methodist Episcopal Church in Providence. The site is now an important historical landmark.

Early Ships Arrive in New England

In 1854, Rhode Island named Providence as its capital. Growing overseas trade and the arrival of the railroad made the city the perfect choice. Improved roadways made transporting cargo from ports to rail stations easier and less risky. The port at Providence was widened, to accommodate the larger cargo ships used for international trade.

The growth of non-religious literature through the 1800s also played an important role in the social and political changes experienced in Rhode Island. Harriet Beecher Stow's "Uncle Tom's Cabin" received critical acclaim throughout the country for its verisimilitude, inspired the emancipation movement throughout the New England colonies, and is considered a major factor in both the anti-slave movement and the Civil War. Fiction and prose also gained popularity with such works as Edgar Allen Poe's "The Raven", written in Providence, taking hold of the national consciousness. Many Rhode Island authors had a strong influence on American literature, but none more so than Providence native Howard Philip Lovecraft, better known as H.P. Lovecraft. His many tales typically involved ghouls and great beasts troubling mortal men, paranormal experiences and unspeakable evil. Volumes of collected Lovecraft works are in print generations after his death. These works had a strong influence on science fiction, fantasy and horror writing around the world, and can be seen in the works of such acclaimed authors as Stephen King and Brian Lumley.

The change in social climate through the 19th and 20th centuries brought with them a change in economy. In addition to literature and publishing, agriculture, most notably nursery stock, vegetables and dairy products took hold throughout the country and the 13th state was ripe for the harvest. The naturally fertile lands were further enriched by the coastal climate. After the industrial revolution changed life in America, industry focus began to take shift once more. Fashion and jewellery, metal products, electronics and machinery, and shipbuilding gained ground as trades of choice. With the coming of the information age, tourism earned a place on that list, showcasing the natural beauty and serenity of the Ocean State.

The early 20th century saw the state become a playground for the middle and upper classes. This trend laid the groundwork for Rhode Island's future tourism industry. The lush environment and rich cultural history further strengthened its drawing power.

The increased interest in this tiny retreat led to the opening of the first state-owned and operated airport in the United States in the summer of 1931. Air shows held in celebration of the new Hillsgrove State Airport facility, serving the Warwick / Providence area, drew the largest crowd of any public function in the country with over 150,000 spectators. Seven years later the airport was renamed Theodore Francis Green State Airport, in honour of Rhode Island's governor. For a brief period during the end of the second world war, the Theodore Francis Green Airport was run by the Army Air Force, to fight the threat to world peace and for training officers graduating from fight school.

The airport, and the successful manufacturing and metal industries proved a great asset during the Second World War. The high level of academia produced by Brown University in the capital of Providence further enhanced the war efforts, and Rhode Island's reputation. Tourism to Rhode Island increased, and new terminals were added to Theodore Francis Green Airport in order to accommodate the trend to use larger aeroplanes. Brown University went on to support the post war recovery by establishing a Veteran's College for soldiers returning from the war.

After the war ended, high technology became the economic leader. Returning GI's and the subsequent baby boom meant high student enrolment in post secondary education would continue for the majority of the century. Many graduates chose to stay in the Ocean State to pursue lucrative technology based careers.

	Living in Rhode Island

In 1952, the Rhode Island based toy manufacturer Hasbro struck gold when it gave the world one of its most loved toys, the Mr. Potato Head. One year later, Mr. Potato Head got married. As technology developed, the Potato Head family was vastly improved. Parts were made bendable, for greater expressive fun, and a trap door was included for storing all the extra parts in the hollow potato shell. The line was expanded to include 12 potato children. So popular was the potato family that in the late 1980s Mr. Potato Head became the poster boy for the "Great American Smoke Off", aimed at helping Americans to give up the smoking habit. As personal computers became more common and affordable, the toy lost popularity, but rebounded with the 1995 release of Disney's animated blockbuster film, "Toy Story".

The state of higher learning prepared Rhode Islanders for the coming computer age. The population grew as industry leaders recruited heavily to keep pace with both computers and biotechnology. By the end of the 1990s, Rhode Island had secured a strong place in the nation's technology sector, and looked forward to creating new wonders in the new millennium.

TRANSPORTATION

Rhode Island has a few airports to choose from, the largest being the Theodore Francis Green Airport just outside Providence. This is the states international airport, run by the Rhode Island Airport Corporation. Regular daily flights are available from such departure points as New York City, New York, Boston, Massachusetts, Chicago, Illinois, Detroit, Michigan, Orlando, Florida and Los Angeles, California.

Also offering daily travel are Greyhound bus lines and Amtrak rail. Amtrak operated stations out of Kingston, Providence and Westerly. Greyhound offers routes to and from Middletown, Newport, Portsmouth and Providence, including stops at the Theodore Francis Green Airport.

The I-95, I-195 and I-295, as well as many minor highways all connect Rhode Island to the world, directly through Providence.

Ferries connect Block Island and Newport before travelling on to Providence and Pawtucket, with stops on Prudence Island and in the Bristol district.

The Rhode Island Public Transit Authority gets visitors around the state, with major stations in Providence and Newport.

SIGHTS & ATTRACTIONS

One of the earliest roads in Rhode Island is now known as Historic US Route 1. The highway runs through the state, sometimes acting as Main Street for one of the many towns along the way. Old Post Road, as it is also called, offers a great opportunity to see not only the historic centers and development of America from the earliest days, but also the beautiful Rhode Island countryside.

The highway also brings sightseers close to literally hundreds of miles of coastline. With so much water, it should come as no surprise that watersport is popular here. The many beaches offer shelter from the roaring Atlantic Ocean, and make for picturesque vacation hideaways. They also provide ideal conditions for boating, water-skiing and surfing. The ocean floor is rough, but there are many areas where few or no rocks can be found. There are also many beaches near state parks and campgrounds, which make a nice way to tour the state. Some of the state operated camp sites offer swimming and surfing lessons.

Water Fun in the Ocean State

City parks usually have more to offer travellers, like the Roger Williams Park & Zoo in Providence. This award winning park is known as the Jewel of Providence, and with good reason. More than three and a half million tourists visit the rose gardens, hills and lakes, and special themed Asian gardens every year. This number is sure to rise once the Roger Williams Park Botanical Gardens open in 2004.

For more historical fare, each summer Portsmouth commemorates the Battle of Rhode Island. Military celebrations and re-enactments are held over an entire weekend, reconstructing the major events of the battle.

The Underground Railroad also has a broad historical appeal. An important link in a major turning point in the development of America, the Railroad made stops in the Ocean State, and many of the sites are recognised as historic landmarks. Sites such as the Bethel African Methodist Episcopal Church (near Brown University campus in Providence) have been commemorated for their role in emancipation and changing American culture. The site is now included in the "Rhode Island Afro-American Heritage Trail".

Providence also has one of the true relics of 20th century American literature at 65 Prospect Street. Known as the Samel B. Mumford House, it served as the living quarters of author H.P Lovecraft. During the decade before his death, this writer reknown for his horror, fiction and fantasy lived in this house, and it was here that he penned many of his most loved and well known stories including The Call of Cthulhu (1926) and At the Mountains Of Madness (1931). In those days, the house could be found at 66 College Street, where it was built in 1825. The John Hay Library, the proud owner of many of Lovecraft's original manuscripts, sat right behind the home, which was later moved to make way for library expansion.

The Mumford House is part of what is known as College Hill, on the site of the first permanent settlement in Rhode Island. College Hill, just east of the Providence River, is one of the city's finest areas for touring. Here visitors can find the oldest and most exquisite architecture in the state, like John Brown's House from 1786, "one of the most elegant mansions on this continent", according to one time President John Quincy Adams. Some restored homes date back to the early 1600s, when Roger Williams and company moved to the region. In the mid 1700s, many of the wealthiest families in Providence lived in this district, so it should be no surprise that Brown University is also found here. Through the late 18th and early 19th centuries, shops began sprouting up along the edge of the Hill, where the district and downtown meet.

The capital city also hosts one of the best loved, and fastest growing events in the state. First Night Providence is an annual celebration of the arts, held every New Years Eve. Midnight fireworks, magicians, storytellers and poets, comedians, dancers and musicians from Rhode Island show off their talents along side entertainers from around the world. Every year it's a little bit different, and every year is better than the last.

Providence is not alone in its appeal. Newport has a prominent location on the Atlantic Ocean, overlooking Rhode Island Sound. This is a fantastic location for swimming, water-skiing and surfing, but also for shopping and touring. Many of the mansions bring to light the architectural genius of early America, and stand as a testament to the enduring nature of the country's first resort town. Some of the wealthiest families in American history have built homes and personal playgrounds here, and have been known to throw extremely lavish parties. Newport's Famous 400, as they were often called, are said to be the inspiration for F. Scott Fitzgerald's classic novel The Great Gatsby. Tours of the mansions are available through many organisations, and the various tours visit different homes. Visitors wishing to see the sights of Little Rhody's second city should be advised that there is a toll bridge system connecting the city with the rest of the state. The 400 foot (122 meter) Newport Bridge stands nearly 200 feet (61 meters) high and can be somewhat unnerving for some travellers.

	Enjoy a Tour of the Stately Mansions

Dining around the state has become an event in itself. There are few places in America where the seafood is as good. Centuries of ocean life have taken the preparation of this delicacy to the highest art form. More often than not, the menus are large enough to offer something for everyone, from the fabulous seafood to Italian dishes.

The 11 square miles (18 kilometers) that make up Block Island are picturesque and serene. Considered one of the greatest places in the United States, the cliffs and rolling hills are dotted with Victorian summer homes converted to modern hotels. Swimming and hiking through fields and glades are the most popular recreational activities on the island, but take a Back Seat to relaxing in the summer sun. Block Island, a popular site for outdoor weddings, can only be reached by boat or plane. Festivals and parades are common between mid-March and early September, and occur almost on a weekly basis. The Southeast Light, the lighthouse on the southern tip, has been declared one of America's "11 most endangered structures of historic significance" by the National Trust for Historic Preservation. The lighthouse, built in 1875 at a cost of $80, 000, once stood 300 feet (91 meters) from the cliff, but more than 100 years of erosion has cut that distance down considerably. By the 1990s, the tower stood a mere 55 feet from the edge. This National Historic Landmark site has since been moved back another 250 feet, hopefully for good.

Ghost tours are becoming more popular in Rhode Island, and can be fun, believer or not. Ghastly tales of New England's departed seem more plausible in the haunting autumn air, though sightings are admittedly rare. The spooky surroundings take on more disturbing tones when considering the fact that both Edgar Allen Poe and H.P. Lovecraft wrote stories inspired by the Rhode Island atmosphere. Nowhere is this more obvious than on a visit to the Harris House, about which Lovecraft penned the "The Shunned House", which comes complete with historical facts about the home and the rumors spawned by the author's writing. Or perhaps to the Witches Altar in South County, which could very well have found a place in the blockbuster horror film "The Blair Witch Project". Truth be told, many of the sights around Rhode Island are fodder for American horror films. Travellers with a taste for the darker side of human history will not be disappointed with the Ocean State. Especially during the Halloween season. Haunted Newport, the largest (and longest) Hallow's Eve festival in all of North America, lasts the entire month of October. A little bit of hostory mixed with good old family fun, the festival includes parties, ghost tours and a celebration of the life of Edgar Allen Poe.